The Difference Fit Can Make

We’ve all seen it, the woman sitting at her desk with the buttons of her shirt pulling or gapping across her bust. Or the one with her skirt digging into her waist. Or another with her pants riding up at the crotch.

None of us admire these looks, but each of us probably has, in our own way, done something similar.  It’s all about fit.

I have a theory that many times it’s because a woman has, at some point gained weight, or perhaps, had a baby, and refuses to accept that she is not returning to her old weight and shape anytime soon.

So she goes on wearing her old clothes and continues to buy new clothes in her old size. After all, she rationalizes, she’s going to begin a diet & exercise program next Monday and will soon be back to her normal weight.

She’s been saying this to herself for the past 5 years. In the meantime, her wardrobe has gone through an entire cycle and very few of the old clothes even remain, but the newer things are still in the old size.

So, over these past 5 years or so, she has been wearing clothes that are unflattering to her new shape and make her look - let’s just say, she’s not at her best. On some level she knows it and it’s depressing to her, but she struggles to accept her new normal.

Less frequently, you’ll see a woman who has lost weight, but continues to wear her old clothes. They’re now too big, but she has a lot of money invested in her wardrobe and it hasn’t occurred to her that she could get the major pieces altered. And, maybe on some level, she’s not sure she’s going to be able to keep the weight off.

Such a woman is a rarity, however. Most women who’ve succeeded in losing weight want to celebrate with a whole new wardrobe. Unfortunately, they, too, will often buy things that are too small because they’re eager to show off their new shape. Or because they’ve become accustomed to wearing clothes that are too tight.

Then there’s the woman who thinks that tighter clothes make her look smaller, or sexier or - fill in the blank - there are many reasons a woman winds up wearing clothes that don’t fit.

What all of these women have in common is an apparent ignorance of how clothes are supposed to fit. They don’t know that properly fitted clothes are the most flattering to all sizes and shapes.

So, how are clothes supposed to fit? Here are some of the keys to the code.

First, we have to understand that clothing manufacturers size their clothing to a mythical “standard shape”. For example: the industry standard for American garments is now usually a Size 6. They size up from Size 6 and down from it. 

In sizing down from Size 6 to Sizes 4, 2 and (sometimes) Size 0, they usually maintain the same Bust-Waist-Hip proportions as the Size 6. But sizing up from it, it starts getting a little irrational.

Let’s say they add an extra inch each to the waist of Sizes 8 and 10. 

Then, they add 1.5 inches to the hip of the Size 8 and 2 inches to the hip of the Size 10. 

Meanwhile, they only add a half inch to the bust of the Size 8 and 1 inch to the bust of the Size 10.

And the proportions get further off as you go up through Sizes 12, 14 and 16.

I’ve never worked in so-called “Plus Sizes” so I don’t know how they proportion. And Asian clothes sizing can be a world unto itself.

I don’t blame you if you’re rolling your eyes at this level of detail, but you need to understand at least a little about how these things work, so that you can find your way through the size jungle and into a satisfactory fit. 

One of the main reasons I’ve said over and over again that you need to do a rational self-assessment is that you can then begin to acquire clothing that not only flatters your particular shape, but fits it as well.

So, don’t just glance in the mirror as you step out of the shower. Get on the scales and then take your measurements at the neck, shoulders (point-to-point, not around), bust, waist, hip, thigh and arm length. Write it all down or put it into your cell phone. You don’t have to give this information to anybody, but you do need it for yourself.

If you shop for clothes that match these measurements, you wouldn’t be able to move in them, so add to your measurements 1 inch to the waist, 1.5 inches to the bust and hips and up to 2 inches to the shoulders, depending on the type of garment.

You’ll save yourself a lot of shopping time if you take a tape measure with you when you go shopping. Choose the size you think you wear, then measure the garment. Measure it on the rack from side seam to side seam, then double the measurement. This will take no more than a minute and it will save the time it would take for you to try it on. 

The measurements of the garment should line up approximately with your own measurements. Only then do you take it into the dressing room. You should even do this at home if you’re shopping online. It will save you from deluding yourself. These kinds of numbers don’t lie!

When you actually try on the garment, the most important consideration is how it fits on the largest part of your figure - let’s say your hips. If it fits through the hips, but the waist is a little large, that can be altered. 

To state the obvious, a garment can usually be made smaller, but not so easily made larger.

With tailored Blazers and Jackets, the most important thing is the shoulders. If it fits well through the shoulders, it can most easily be altered through the body. Shoulders can be altered, but it’s more expensive.

Finally, the clothes should feel comfortable. The waist should close without binding, buttons should button and zippers should zip without coercion. The whole garment should look smooth, with no bagging (too big) or pulling (too small).

If this all happens for you when you try on a new garment - Congratulations! You’ve found a manufacturer who sizes to your body. Always look for this label on future shopping trips. 

But that doesn’t happen very often and measurements can vary, even from the same manufacturer. So, that’s actually Plan B. Plan A is to find someone who can do alterations.

If you’re shopping in a store, ask the salesperson if they provide in-store alterations or if they can make recommendations. Ask your dry cleaner if they have someone who does alterations. Find a local dressmaker or tailor.

Or, and I’m not kidding here, take a course in sewing at your local high school or community collage. Learn to do simple alterations yourself. You might even enjoy it and you’ll certainly never regret it.

Next week: Outré vs Classic

- Gabrielle